The double sole on my two Derbies (#8 & Whiskey) wore through as fast as shoes with single Rendenbach sole (I walk a lot). If you do use colored cream, it wont have any permanent or lasting stains like dye that you have to worry about. I live in Atlanta but regularly travel to NY for work and have been trying to plan a work trip for next week to coincide with the NY pop-up; sadly I dont think it will work out but will hopefully get an opportunity next time in NY or London. Hi,Simon But the point is not just putting fat/oil on. I have covered them a little here, but thats all for the moment, I order this up for clients all the time. Those who dont which includes most of the big shoe brands when it comes to offering Horween Shell Cordovan shoes, like Alden, Allen Edmonds, Crockett & Jones, Carmina etc treats the cordovan hides themselves to make it withstand moisture and dirt better. You might like it as much as some other folks do. Since I had them resoled with R. double soles they are still going strong. You can easily buy all necessary equipment to care for Codovan leather from http://www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk. They havent been worked on much, so if you think theyre too shiny for you, dont buy cordovan. No worries. It states Cordovan on the insole. Thank you. The color can always remain more consistent with proper shoe polish, if youd like. Simon, I have approx. A fast brush will not only remove dirt, but the friction will build up heat that brings back oils and shine to the leather. Lighter color Shell Cordovan are more difficult to source. Thanks Tom, very interesting, and I can see how those black shoes would be very smart. It doesnt seem like the retailers carrying the brand have them on a regular basis. As many Americans of my generation did (and still do) we wore tassel loafers with pin and chalk stripe suits in classic corporate settings. My CJ shell bloom to no end, while my friends Alden seems fine, whatever additional layer Alden put on seem to work. Thanks for your reply, Simon. Thanks Simon, that is a very important point you make and something Ill need to research, while my mind is still conflicted, that would be the starting point. Or did I choose the wrong colour? Over time, even with proper care, repeated creasing can cause leather to crack and rip. I actually find personally that the colour goes well with navy or grey, but I dont think the shoes are ever really smart enough. Look for rotting, mold, super compressed insoles all the things youd normally look for with used shoes or boots. In this case, youd be safer to just do it yourself. And as mentioned, most burgundy/oxblood isnt as nice as the colour 8. If they are NOS (new old stock) and havent been worn, touched, or developed any sort of patina, do your best to color-match cream polishes. Note: Since there is no base adhering to the pores of the shell, like you have with leather, be careful with excess pressure, wax, and water. You need heat and pressure to do that, and the fat helps. I think its because the cordovan is a single, flat colour and so doesnt get as much of the variation of other colours like no 8 shown here. Maybe stick to wearing the Alden with slightly thick socks and hope the toebox moulds to my feet? Thanks. Do you send them back to Aldens factory in the US or do you use a local service? Yes, I think there are boots that can look great smart and casual, but they will always be more of a look, one way or the other. I dont think they stock color #8, but usually have whisky and dark brown, which is a little different from Aldens Cigar brown. Kirby has a good video on that here, Hello Simon: As too much of any of these, will quickly clump or slough off the shine. I think I will acquire one pair of Alden boots. You can minimize the likelihood, but can never 100% prevent it. I have a pair of colour 8 Cordovan brogues from Crockett and Jones which are one of my favourite shoes. The tanning process takes at least six months. The exact treatment differs between the brands, which is why the cordovan is experienced as a bit different depending on whove made the shoes. Prioritising comfort/space. Thanks! So, thats not recommended. The last one that I tried (from Albam) looked similar to the others that I own (Howlin, Harley and AS all in relatively dark colours) but then when I tried it, I could see my shirts stripes. Welcome to Worth the Price, a recurring series exploring some of menswears most covetable and expensive products. I also have Kirby Allisons cordovan care kit (complete with deer bone) which comes in handy to smooth the ripples a bit. Just as fancy patinas have lost all charm, so cordovan has gained it. How do you feel about the morality and integrity of supporting this? Theres so much oil in there already, and you risk getting white lines in the creases. Fit is great, love the colour obviously, and the last isnt as round as I thought it might be. However, I would think carefully about the style. You also get a nice contrast between hard smoothness where there is reinforcement in the shoe - like the toe and heel - and a highly textured colour change where it bends. A jean with a leg that slim looks silly with a normal Alden loafer on the bottom. Cordovan possesses a natural shine, even without additional products. https://viberg.com/products/service-boot-cap-toe-horween-dark-cognac-shell-cordovan. The production of Horween's Genuine Shell . I think its up to him. Worth every short term pinch! Apologies on the sizing point, I was thinking about my LHS, not these full straps. Besides Cordovan, I really appreciate that Alden offers many shoes in different widths, although is only holds true when purchased in the US. And then theres the general quality of workmanship. Only spoons dont come with embedded oils. Either way, dont take out word for it. By accepting all cookies, you agree to our use of cookies to deliver and maintain our services and site, improve the quality of Reddit, personalize Reddit content and advertising, and measure the effectiveness of advertising. do you think the full strap in calf is easier to wear in and adapts faster? The stacks on the heels Alden uses are of bonded leather which loses form when it gets wet. Hi Simon, Ignoring any particular gaps in ones collection, what shoes types do you think are most versatile when made from cordovan? I mean, I see cons, but what exact reasons of yours? As Nick Horween told us on that tannery visit, this colour 8 makes up about 65% of their cordovan production. Hi what are those abrasions in the crease of the St Crispins? I know some recommend to size down half but I think Ill stick with the same size to be honest, even if the Barrie last is slightly bigger (usually means wider, not longer in my experience). Theres a couple of nice ones on the Barrie Im eyeing. Yes, Van is wider so theres a lot more room in there, though I didnt find going a half size down worked for me that made the loafer too short on the toes. Love it! Allow to dry using the method above . Some people argue that cordovan stretches (like calf) but I have no experience with breaking in cordovan shoes. I rarely wear them with a suit they are not especially sleek or fashionable. Both. They were the kind of thing a flash salesman would wear. Couldnt find anywhere in Uk. The Only Shoe & Boot Term Dictionary You'll Ever Need, The Best Made-in-the-USA Shoe and Bootmakers You Should Be Supporting, The Viberg Service Boot: an Extremely Complete History, The Ultimate Guide to Shell Cordovan Care, Photos by @deshellvedge and @tichoblancoshoes, Introducing: The WORK Dome Presented by Nicks Boots, THE Community for EnthusiastsPlus Get Discounts on Grant Stone & Sagara, Whites x Division Road Shoenanza: Fall 22, Want to chat shoes and leather all day? Many thanks, People familiar with shell cordovan know that it is a self-polishing leather. Those are the heavy wear spots and would be the first to show signs of breakdown, if not cared-for. Been thinking about getting them from gabucci for a while now. Id also seen examples of shell exposed to sun lightening up quite a bit. The shoe on the left is the untouched shoe, and the right shoe is the experimental shoe, that has lightened up just a bit on the heal. There have been plenty of examples of how Color 8 patinates over time, including this one from Horween itself. It does look nice in the photos, Cordovan is nice, and it is more expensive, but its hard to say that youd get 500 more out of it in terms of value, Hi Simon, thank you for the post. I find the punching really stands out nicely on cordovan more than calf or regular steer leather. Obviously, they have both been resoled. Seems like Color 8 usually gets lighter over time the same way denim looks more and more washed over time. This week: shell cordovan shoes. But, it will better retain its coloration across wears. But from what you write here about comfort and opting for the larger size (if in doubt) I figure that I ought to go for the size 8,5/ E rather than trying my luck on a pair in size 8,5 D ? If your foot flexes at different points in the shoe from its previous owner, youll end up putting in more ripples in the shoe, deforming its original shape further. It would be super cool to see you commission something vegan just to see whats achievable if you apply the same craft and taste to a different material. We Found Out, This New Showerhead Brings Heavy Pressure, The Best New Style Releases from 2023 (So Far), The Best Work Boots You Can Buy, No Matter the Job, Shell Cordovan Leather Shoes Are Expensive, Painful and I Love Them. I like the comfort, the all day wearability. P.S. It doesnt sound like you need much help from me Chris. Only when there is a deeper scratch I apply some Saphir Renovateur on the spot (which with buffing gets applied over the whole shoe then). Do you have any tips to reduce that sound ? Ive seen and worn many shoes over the years that were called burgundy, oxblood, or something similar, but I always felt they had nothing to recommend them over black or brown. George Wang (https://dieworkwear.com/2018/09/06/the-sophisticated-black-tassel/) that black loafers work better with jeans than brown ones? I have inherited a pair of Church cordovan brogues. I do see above in the comments. It was a great decision in that the loafers look lovely. Im also a newcomer to shell cordovan, but I am hooked. You were mentioning the armoury/fukuda lasts. hi simon, been looking to purchase a casual shoe like this from paraboot (https://www.paraboot.com/en/men/boat-shoes/barthmarine-marron-america) and will be my first foray into this colour. Still not certain of the color though: Thanks for any, and all input fellows/folks. Trumps protectionism was focused on imposing and raising tariffs. (See link) Im after a pair of loafers that would be very versatile and wanted to get your opinion on the lopez in plum or other color. On that tannery visit, this colour 8 cordovan brogues all input fellows/folks the! It wont have any tips to reduce that sound including this one from Horween itself Alden! Wearing the Alden with slightly thick socks and hope the toebox moulds to my feet people that! 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